The Budgerigar (or Budgie ) is a tiny parrot-like bird whose correct name is Australian Shell Parakeet.

It is referred as a lovebird, most likely due to its displays of affection when maintained in couples and the fact that these birds were presented as symbols of love by the Japanese to their brides-to-be.

This fad is thought to have been started by a Japanese tourist to this nation who bought a pair of blue budgerigars (then only known as parakeets ) as a present for his lady love.

We believe that simply wanting a Budgie as a bird in a cage is insufficient. These birds are deserving of a better life. They are wonderful pets, fantastic friends, and a tried-and-true complement to any home.

How To Choose Your Budgie (Parakeet)

Many people wonder, “Where is the best place to buy a budgie?” It is advisable to go to a pet store or breeder with a solid reputation for high-quality birds, preferably a local breeder or dealer.

Visit the aviaries where the birds are bred, and if possible, meet the breeder himself. He can answer any questions you have about your bird, providing advise on its care and training, and be present in the case of an emergency, such as illness or an accident.

budgie (parakeet) are bred at a lot of pet stores.There are a few unscrupulous, get-rich-quick breeders that count money in the nest instead of birds, but they are thankfully in the minority.

By attempting to produce as many birds per pair, each year, as possible, they are justly rewarded with under-nourished, under-sized, tiny “runts” which, on average, live just a brief period. Such a method results in nothing more than a bad reputation and, finally, no sale of such stock.

A skilled breeder will restrict his birds’ families (four to a nest is a fair average), but the other sort of breeder will let a couple of birds to raise as many young as will hatch, sometimes as many as 10.

Breeders frequently have certain pairings that produce stronger “talkers,” so if the budgerigar’s talking ability is the main appeal for you, you may be able to get a baby of this established talking strain.

This fact, however, should not be overstated. Almost any budgie may be taught to talk if the training begins at a young age. It is up to the owner and how much time and effort he spends into training.

Most pet businesses try to sell high-quality birds so that if there isn’t a breeder in the area, the owner or manager of the pet store will be happy to help in any way he can.

It cannot be overstated how important it is to have a baby between the ages of five and eight weeks for the best success in taming and talking.

Allow intellect to take precedence over size and shape when selecting a budgie for a pet. Check if the bird is in good health, has good mental alertness, and that the plumage is not spotty.

Although a juvenile bird’s plumage lacks the brightness of its parents, its feathers should be smooth and even, with a satin sheen.

If the budgie was raised to be a pet, it will have been handled a lot while in the nest, and it should be quite easy to get it totally finger tame.

How To Tame Your Budgie (Parakeet)

The easiest way to tame a budgie is to take it out of its cage two or three times a day and stroke and fondle it until it has lost all dread of being handled. A bird that is five or six weeks old at the time of purchase is ideal for everyone involved, including the bird, the owner, and the seller.

A budgie that has already been accustomed to flying or living in a tiny cage may require a little more patience in taming, but with kind treatment and love, the bird quickly loses its dread of being handled and will approach the finger of its own free choice.

Before beginning training, every budgie should be allowed to settle in its new cage for a day or two. It is important to note that the depth and thoroughness of your bird’s training will determine its intelligence. The ultimate goal of keeping a single bird as a pet should be to train it to be an expert mimic.

Everything related to the budgie should be done slowly and softly; seed and water containers should be carefully withdrawn and refilled; the cage should be moved slowly whenever possible; and the bird itself should be approached quietly and gently until it comes across as brave and unafraid.

When teaching a fledgling or an adult budgie, the very first approach should be to carefully enter your hand into the cage and gently brush the bird’s breast and head while speaking softly and reassuringly to it.

The budgie may be scared at first and flit around the cage, but with a soothing voice and patient perseverance, it will eventually sit still and rest on the finger.

If the budgie (parakeet) does not sit on the finger after a while, despite continuous efforts, gently push the finger against its legs, and it will climb onto the finger rather than be pushed back. When it learns there will be no harm done to it, the bird will not protest to being handled in this manner.

Most budgies enjoy having their brow ” tickled,” and this is a tremendous aid in training. After a time, the bird will even swivel its head to be tickled on different areas of its body. When this happens, the war is almost done. You have gained its trust, which is the main point of taming any pet.

How To Train Your Pet Budgie (Parakeet)

Once a budgie has been finger-tamed, training should begin right away. The bird should have perched on the finger in the cage at this point, therefore it should now be trained to approach the finger outside of the cage.

When a budgie is initially let out of its cage, it may fly around the room until it is weary, at which point it will fall to the ground. Do not approach it until it has recovered, and then use the same gentle, soothing voice while going approaching the bird.

It may come to the finger right away or fly away, but as the bird becomes accustomed to its environment outside of the cage, it quickly learns to return to the finger.

A juvenile budgie given its first taste of freedom in the room may race against the window, but after a while, it quickly learns that there is no escape in that direction.

Getting a budgie back into its cage can be difficult at times and needs a lot of patience, but hunger frequently causes it to return on its own. However, during the first day or two, walking slowly towards the cage with the bird sitting on the finger and gently returning it to its perch is the ideal method.

If the budgie refuses to return to the cage after being freed, be careful not to ruin all of your painstaking training by chasing it about the room.

If the budgie (parakeet) needs to return there right away, capture it by swiftly placing a thin piece of cloth, such as a handkerchief, over it and gently carrying the pet to its cage. It is preferable not to catch the bird with your hands spread out, since this will naturally make it fearful of your hands in the future.

Another method for catching a budgie (parakeet)  is to swiftly push the thumb over its feet while it is sitting on the forefinger and capture it with the other hand. Never crush the bird; instead, hold it lightly and prevent letting it escape again, since they do so readily.

A budgie may sometimes be caught in the dark; take note of where it is perching, turn out the light, and gently grab hold of it. All budgerigars like their independence, so expect some difficulties in returning your bird to its cage for a while.

Certain measures should be followed before allowing a budgie to roam freely in a room. Imagination should be used to predict potential harm to the small bird, and it cannot be overstated that the more tame a bird grows, the higher the chance of escape.

Windows should be closed, and the entrance should be not just closed but also secured if feasible, or a warning should be posted to discourage thoughtless entry or escape while the bird is free.

Far too many of these pets have died as a result of their owners leaving the house with the birds still perched on their shoulders. They had forgotten the birds were even present.

Fortunately, once a budgie (parakeet)  has been trained to return to the finger when called, it can always be caught again.

A budgie will frequently return to its cage if it is placed within sight, but it is preferable for the trainer to just go out after the budgie, since too many people pursuing or calling it would only push it farther away.

Some trainers advocate cutting the bird’s flying feathers to reduce its capacity to fly, but this is not a comfortable procedure for the pet.

When the budgie (parakeet)  is free, there should be no bare lights; no access to an open fire, as the fire and the open chimney through which the bird may escape provide a double hazard; no hot stove on which the bird may land; and no other pets, especially cats, in the room.

Because budgerigars are a lively and inquisitive bird, it is best to remove any tiny things, like as jewellery, that are lying around the room. Otherwise, the bird may lose them since they are simple to pick up and fascinating to it.

These budgies only react to gentle care, and once a budgie has overcome its fear of humans, it will delight in following its owner (or owners) around, learning and repeating whatever tricks it is taught. Once tamed, a budgerigar prefers human companionship to that of its kind, and its loyalty to the humans it learns to trust is highly rewarding.

Every budgie (parakeet) has its own personality and learning abilities. Some budgies are taught tricks, while others develop their own.

These budgies can be trained to talk, sing, dance, cough, sneeze, “kick ” a little ball around, and do a variety of other tricks with patience. Once they’ve been won over, they can’t stop playing.

When writing, climbing the pen; tugging Grandma’s wool while knitting; racing the pianist’s fingers up and down the piano; pointing out the best card to play at the bridge, and so on.

A budgie will frequently deliver its greatest performance in front of a mirror. A tiny wooden ladder, a bell, a swing, and rebounding toys made of plastic or celluloid are all advised for the budgerigar’s cage.

A budgie loves to toss these toys about and strike them when they bounce back. A bird, on the other hand, should be allowed to recover after playing.

During the first few days of cage life, both a nestling and a young bird that has been permitted to mingle with other birds of its species may look dull and listless. This is generally due to a lack of company from the other birds, so don’t be too concerned for the first day or two.

How To Teach Your Budgie Pet (Parakeet) To Talk

It is possible to teach virtually every budgerigar under the age of six months to talk, but success is totally dependent on the training of the animal.

This training should begin on the first day or so, and single unambiguous words should be utilised throughout the “taming” and “training” process. It’s a good idea to teach a bird to pronounce its name first, preferably a short, easy name like Mickey, Billy, Joey, Beauty, or anything like.

Begin teaching the budgie (parakeet) a new term as soon as it has mastered one. Because a budgie’s “voice” will be similar in tone, pitch, and pace to that of its trainer, speak clearly and a bit slower than in regular conversation, as this will help the Budgie (Parakeet) remember the words much faster.

A budgie that has become finger tame will sit on the finger and listen intently for extended periods of time; then, when left alone, it will chatter until it eventually repeats the phrases it has been trained to say. The clarity with which some budgies talk is astounding, and it serves as a tremendous reward for years of careful training.

It is hardly necessary to state in these enlightened days that removing a bird’s tongue has no effect on its capacity to communicate. A practice like this might be described as barbaric.

A budgerigar that has been taken right from the nest and properly, thoroughly taught will generally utter its first word at the age of two to three months, but owners should not be disappointed if it takes longer. Some budgies have been known to speak for the first time at the age of one year and go on to become outstanding talkers.

Other juvenile budgies, on average, require about eight weeks before they begin to speak. A wild caged budgerigar has been known to talk, but it is the tame birds who produce the finest talkers. It may only take two or three days for a Budgie (Parakeet) to acquire new words once it begins to communicate.

It is, however, preferable not to teach it everything at once, as this would simply cause the words to get jumbled. It’s also not a good idea to leave a talking bird alone for lengthy periods of time, since it will revert to “budgie chatter.” As a result, chat to a bird at least once a day and prompt it anytime it appears to be puzzled.

When a budgie loses interest during training, stop talking since it is a waste of time to continue. Continue with the lesson when the Budgie (Parakeet) is motionless and looks to be paying attention. Breaking in when a budgie starts talking will cause him to shut up and listen.

Some experts advise utilising records to teach a budgerigar to talk. While this is a wonderful concept, the owner or trainer can get considerably greater results simply speaking to the bird. In order to offer the best instruction, get the budgie to sit on your finger approximately twelve inches away from your mouth. When you’re near to the bird, only say what you want it to hear.

Many pet owners converse with their birds, but they do not teach them to converse. There is a notable distinction. Simply talking to a bird will usually result in meaningless babble, but training the bird to talk, that is, repeating a particular phrase or sentence over and over again, will result in an excellent, clear ” talker.”

Some people believe that a bird’s color influences its ability to communicate. This is not the case. It has nothing to do with color.

While a mirror in the cage may encourage a bird to communicate, it may also cause it to become too excited, and because no two birds are identical in personality and temperament, the option to offer or not provide a mirror is up to the individual owner.

Never lose up and don’t be discouraged if the bird takes a long time to learn to communicate.

Budgie (Parakeet) Cages


A budgerigar requires a considerably larger cage than a canary; the larger and ideally oblong the cage, the better.

There are several great cages available, and any dealer can explain the advantages of each style of cage.

At least two perches (but not too many, since they interfere with activity), a swing in the upper half of the cage, and a perch closest to the feeding cups should all be present. Because budgerigars are naughty, the bottom trays should be detachable.

They rapidly learn to pull a slide door and so obtain their freedom. Cages, on the other hand, are more or less built to a standard these days and are typically of extremely high quality, so this should not be a problem.

When the budgie (parakeet) is out of the cage, take advantage of the chance to clean it out. Replace the sand, seed, and water, and leave the entrance open for the bird to return freely, using a damp cloth dipped in a light disinfectant.

Diseases that affect Budgies (Parakeets)


Symptoms include unusual wheezing, sneezing, coughing, and a watery discharge from the nose.

Maintain a warm environment for the ill bird with a continual supply of fresh air. Frequently change the water and, if required, remove the cold. Draughts should be avoided.

Feeding should be done sparingly and with fresh food. Keep a well-balanced, nutritious diet. If the assault is severe, add one drop of Eucalyptus oil to the drinking water. Asthma caused by a cold can be treated, but persistent asthma is incurable, and breeding with a bird with this condition is not recommended.


Birds get bald for a variety of causes. Inadequate or stale food, debilitation, excessive hen output, and mites are also factors.

Give Cod Liver Oil, mashed egg yolk, fresh greens, and lots of light, air, and movement for debilitation and old age. Keep the cuttlefish bone handy.

If you believe that incorrect or stale food is the reason of baldness, evaluate the food and adjust diet and feeding habits.

On bald areas produced by mites, apply a light sulphur ointment. See the paragraph on “ Mites ” for further information.

If a bird’s leg is broken, it should be fixed and kept in place using a match stick or toothpick, then tied with thread, but not so tightly that circulation is cut off.

Splints should be worn for three weeks before being removed. Remove any high perches and place the bird in a cage where it will not be disturbed or scared. Feed after the sun has set, gently removing and replacing cups.

It’s preferable to leave a damaged wing alone because it can’t be fixed. If the wing hangs low enough to obstruct the bird, fold it as gently and neatly as possible against the bird’s side and secure it with adhesive tape.


Symptoms include a dry cough and breathing difficulties.

Treat as if it were asthma, and don’t make the bird any more uncomfortable by allowing it to grow excited in any manner. Maintain a warm and calm environment for the bird.

Claw Cutting

This is not a disease, but one of the issues that breeders face. All birds’ feet should be inspected on a regular basis, and any claws that are excessively long should be clipped.

This should be done in bright light so that you can see the vein that goes down and terminates in the claw. Always cut slightly below the vein’s termination, never through it.

Long claws are detrimental to birds, obstructing their motions and making it difficult for them to sit securely and safely.


Sneezing, watery nasal discharge, ruffled feathers, lassitude, and a lack of appetite are all symptoms of the common cold. Maintain a comfortable environment for the bird. Draughts must be avoided.

Colds and other illnesses may be exhausting, but once the fever has subsided, offer conditioners such cod liver oil, mashed egg yolk, and fresh greens. Give the water that has been boiled and chilled.

If a cold that won’t go away, try a pinch of Epsom Salt in water.


Symptoms During the passage, there were dry, firm droppings and squeezing.

A poor diet and lack of exercise are the most common causes. Give plenty of fresh air, gravel, and exercise ( in flight if possible ). If the problem persists, try putting a drop of castor oil in the beak to warm up the water.


Symptoms Droppings that are loose, wet, and discoloured.

Stale and contaminated foods are the major cause of this problem. Pesticides have also been used on unwashed greens.

Clean perches and cage and sterilise drinking and feeding cups

Give whole wheat bread soaked in milk on the first day, but don’t allow it sour in the cage.

Make frequent renewals. Give lots of seed and pebbles, along with boiling water. Greens should be avoided until the droppings have returned to normal, after which they should be given sparingly for a day or two.

One drop of Paregoric or a few drops of Sal Hepatica in the drinking water for severe diarrhoea has been tried and found to be effective.

Egg Binding

Another issue that a breeder may face and which requires quick attention is this one. The hen will be seen trembling and straining, as she is unable to pass an egg.

Heat and the use of a spare tail or wing feather soaked in olive oil to grease the vent are the major treatments.

Also, a drop of oil in the bird’s beak is a good idea. Handle the bird carefully and calmly, and if possible, keep it in the warm environment until the egg has been passed and the hen has had a chance to recover.

If the Cod Liver Oil is given before the birds are paired for breeding, egg binding is less likely to occur.


Diarrhea and lethargy are two of the most common symptoms. Feathers ruffled A cold or stale, unfit meal may be the source of this illness.

The bird is kept warm and is given total rest and silence as part of the treatment. On the first day, provide whole-wheat bread soaked in milk and don’t allow it go bad. Make frequent renewals.

After that, provide plenty of seed and stones along with boiling water. Greens should be avoided until the disease has significantly improved, at which point they should be used sparingly. Clean cage and sterilise feeding cups


Fits Convulsions and irrational flight.

Exposure to the sun, intestinal issues caused by poor diet, or over-excitement can all contribute to this condition.

Using cold water, saturate the head. All food cups should be sterilized, and the food should be replaced.

Cover the cage with a dark cloth and wait for the bird to recuperate in peace. Until the bird has fully recovered, avoid any unexpected noise or movement near the cage.

Remove the cover by gently squeezing it off. Keep a close eye on food and don’t breed with birds that are having fits.

Lice ( or Mites )

Symptoms of Lice ( or Mites ) A bird that picks at itself on a regular basis. Ruffled feathers on a regular basis.

To test for mites at night, drape a clean white towel over the cage. There would be little spots on the fabric in the morning if mites are present.

Dip the cloth in boiling water or use a very hot iron to destroy the pests. The cage or aviary should be given special attention, with all sections examined and cleaned with a mild Lysol solution. Allow plenty of time to dry.

Before returning to the cage or retiring for the night, lightly sprinkle 5 percent dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane Powder beneath the wing, back, and around the neck of the birds, and allow them to fly around a bit to shake off any excess powder. This should be done once or twice a week until the mites are completely gone.

Every night, the cloth should be draped over the cage or placed near the birds, and the mites should be exterminated as usual. Follow this procedure until the mites are completely gone from the fabric.

These pests should be dealt with immediately and properly since they cause significant discomfort and, in the worst-case scenario, illness to the budgie.


Loss of energy, sleepiness, and feather loss are common symptoms.

Moulting is not normally an illness, but a bird’s susceptibility to disease is increased at this period, therefore extra care should be taken with them.

The moulting season begins in July, when the weather is hot and humid. Avoid draughts and maintain a reasonable temperature.

Allow the budgie to bathe frequently, but make sure the air temperature is warm enough to dry quickly. Fresh air and sunshine are good for you, but don’t expose yourself to the sun for lengthy periods of time.

Give them a healthy diet that includes mashed egg yolk and tiny amounts of linseed (or flaxseed), and make sure they have access to lots of freshwater. Cuttlefish-bone and gravel are other good options.

A bird should be kept relatively calm and unfrightened throughout the moulting process. A bird emerges from a moult more beautiful and brilliantly feathered than before if it is given adequate care and attention.

French ( or Soft ) Moult 

Loss of feathers, lassitude, and sleepiness are among symptoms of French ( or Soft ) Moult. Many ideas have been proposed as to what causes French or Soft Moult in budgerigars, however pooqza team specialists think that French Moult in budgerigars is caused by a mite that is identical to the mite found in the seed.

As a result, therapy should be identical to that used to treat lice ( or Mites ).

Bathing the bird’s wings and tail with a mild solution of Lysol provides a faster, although more severe, cure. The cage, cups, perches, and any other moveable pieces may also be cleaned in the same solution.

Although it is highly effective, many breeders employ 5 percent or 10% dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane Powder.

Some people believe that a food deficit causes French Moult.

Eyes that hurt Use tepid water and boric acid to bathe often. A 10% Argyrol solution is recommended by some. If symptoms of a cold are present, proceed as directed under ” Colds “.

How To Feed Your Pet Budgie (Parakeet)

White millet and canary seed are unquestionably the finest staple foods for budgerigars.

Equal parts by mass is a decent mixture, however many professional breeders feed slightly less millet seed than canary grass; 50 percent Canary grass, 40 percent Millet, and 10% Oats is a suitable mixture at all times, except in hot weather, when the oats should be discontinued.

When purchasing supplies, insist on the best re-cleaned seed; it will save you money in the long run.

If a budgerigar needs to be kept in good shape, it must eat green food. It must be given on a regular basis otherwise the digestive organs may be disturbed.

Because greens are frequently treated for pest control, they should be properly cleaned. Lettuce, dandelion, spinach, plantain, and sowing grass are all good choices.

Sprouted seed is also a highly nutritious meal that is high in vitamins. Soak the seed and keep it wet until it sprouts. Stale food should not be kept in the cage under any circumstances.

Grit is also beneficial to birds as a digestive aid. This may be purchased for a very low price or manufactured from sterilized regular eggshells. In a hot oven for about half an hour, you may sterilize the eggshells.

Another key ingredient is lime. Cuttle fishbone is the most practical way to provide this, and it’s crucial that there’s always a supply for the birds to select from.

It not only gives them the lime they need for eggshell construction, but it also keeps their beaks tidy. Cuttlefish bone is the traditional supply of lime, as it is safer and less expensive than limestone grit or a piece of old plaster for the birds to eat.

Another important ingredient is oats, or oat groats, which are especially useful during the winter months or while raising young. Groats are popular with the birds, but they should be fed in moderation because they are high in fat.

During moulting, a few linseed seeds applied lightly to fresh feathers adds a shine.

Another excellent conditioner is cod liver oil, which should be administered throughout the winter months and at least a month before the birds start reproducing.

This also inhibits egg binding, however giving the oil to the budgie during breeding season is not a good idea.

When the Young’s hatch, you may continue the process. To one pound of seed mixture, add one teaspoon of oil and stir thoroughly. This is a task that must be completed completely.

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