Cats, like people, do not require complete freedom to do anything they want. With proper training, cats have good manners and make perfect pets.
If cats are allowed to acquire poor habits, they become unsatisfactory pets; retraining bad habits is more difficult than properly teaching a cat. Training is relatively simple if wrong habits are never formed.
You Shouldn’t Punish A Cat
It’s pointless to criticize or scold a cat since it doesn’t understand what you’re saying. It harms him because it perplexes him and makes him more likely to engage in risky behaviour.
A cat, on the other hand, can’t reason or think backward, therefore it can’t connect dots. He has no notion what the man’s concern is.
Scolding, discipline, impatience, anger, or frustration should never be used to harm a cat’s wellbeing. Any cat that attacks someone has been abused or is presently scared.
Cross or irritating behaviour with a cat weakens the affection that should exist between the cat and the owner; it delays or stops training; it perplexes the cat; it makes him unhappy and uncertain of himself and his value.
An adult cat is like a never-growing child; he must not be hurt and must be constantly monitored. Older cats prefer routines because of their ability to learn by repetition.
They anticipate eating on time, sleeping or playing at specific times of the day, and rising at the same time every day, including Sundays and holidays. A midnight meal is a simple way to convince a cat to return to his regular feeding spot.
If a cage is large enough and handled appropriately to minimize overcrowding, it can be a cat’s room. Cages are completely acceptable, and every cat owner should have one.
A kitten who has been trained from birth accepts a daily routine that includes cage time. The convenience of a cat’s room and a cage should not be confused with keeping a cat confined all of the time or for long periods of time.
A bored cat or kitten may begin chewing towels, blankets, or anything else they can find, or they may misbehave with their sanitary trays.
A cat room must have enough cages for growing kittens and breeding stock, with each mother cat having her own six-foot cage when her kittens are born.
This cage has a bed, a pan, and a low flat-topped log where kittens may sharpen their claws naturally on wood.
She may spend more time in the cage during her last weeks of pregnancy if she gets the sense that it’s her home and she’s pleased to have her kids in the warm, sheltered bed at the dark end of the cage.
A large cage saves time and effort while also protecting kittens from draughts and accidents. It also makes training easier. Raising kittens in a house or apartment is considerably simpler with a large cage.
A little, lovely cage that blends in with the furniture may be built; the top can be used as a table; about 20 inches by 30 inches provides for a thin tray, a bed, and a place for the cat to sit when not sleeping. The cage is better protected from draughts and easier to clean.
Cats can be trained to utilize litter boxes and scratching posts, and they can be trained to do so consistently unless they are separated from them and forced to find a substitute. This is a habit we’ve given them something to do, so it’s become a habit.
If you don’t want your cat to climb on a certain chair or table, give him another high place to climb until he gets used to it. But, while you’re gone, the cat will certainly explore the limited area with care, as cats are trained to do.
Another case in this category is the dining-room or kitchen table when there is food on it. One option is to keep the cat indoors during mealtime.
When there is someone there, a cat can be trained not to jump on a table with food on it, but not when left alone. A cat does what he wants, not what he is forced to do.
That’s why training a cat entails instilling in him a desire to do the right thing. In the case of food, no wise person gives her cat the opportunity to steal food from the table; and she certainly does not blame him if an accident happens. If left alone too long, a cat will get into mischief from boredom.
If you ignore a cat for a long time, he may knock over a vase or scratch in the wrong area to get your attention.
A cat can jump carefully to a table, landing just where he planned, and breaking nothing.
Home cats, on the other hand, have no motive to be careful, so they may leap carelessly and knock over everything.
Heavy lighting, fragile flowers, slick table runners, and tiny tables that could tip are all things to avoid.
It’s crucial to be consistent; don’t confuse your cat by allowing him to do something at one time and then criticizing him at another.
When it comes to obtaining a new kitten or cat, those who have kept one or more cats for a long time make the most mistakes.
They expect him to conform in all ways with the previous cat or cats. He doesn’t need any further instruction to use his sanitary tray as the previous cats did.
They scold the new kitten for being “stupid” or “bad” whenever he makes a mistake. Despite the notion that good training begins when the cat is a kitten, people occasionally buy untrained adult cats.
If a cat starts chewing woollen material or misbehaves with his sanitary tray or scratching post, either the cat or the temptation must be removed.
Do sure you don’t make the same error repeatedly since it will become a habit, which is unfair to the cat. Do not chastise or penalize. A cat must have natural outlets for his energies and instincts and desires.
Many “bad” behaviours are the result of owners failing to meet the fundamental requirements and expectations of their cats.
A frequent outlet for these activities is essential for a cat’s health and pleasure, as well as his good manners.
This excludes cats that have overindulged and are sluggish. Because there is always a draught on a floor, cats cannot and should not be kept fully on it.
A happy cat may easily be diverted from unpleasant behaviours even without a cat room or cage. Don’t leave him alone in any room until he can be trusted there. Gently reprimand him or refocus his attention while you’re with him.
Stopping a cat from doing something by speaking quietly or gently taking him away is the greatest approach to train him. Above all, don’t leave him alone in a room full of tempting objects late at night.
You may train a kitten to respond by snapping your fingers, calling his name, or creating a special sound at meals while he is young. “Don’t” or “Stop” or a similar remark might be helpful.
For such habits as chewing paper and climbing clothes, just take simple and direct measures. Encourage the kitten not to climb on the paper.
A cat may be startled by a rapid movement or a harsh remark, causing him to destroy or topple anything.
Claw sharpening is as natural to a cat as eating or sleeping. No cat is completely content or well-cared-for until he has his own claw sharpening instrument, which he likes using, He may have chosen and been given the board, chair, or hamper, or his owner may have purchased a suitable scratching post for him.
A scratching post should be something that the cat can use and enjoys. Denying a cat what he wants and then taking away all he has is cruel. The cat is suspicious and distrustful of people who act irrationally.
A cat must be provided with a natural outlet for his natural desire to sharpen his claws. It’s foolish, cruel, and illogical to punish a cat for sharpening its claws on furniture when no training or provision has been provided.
Clipping the claws does not deter a cat from scratching. He sharpens his claws by scraping appropriate things and peeling off the outer layers; instinct drives him and he enjoys the action.
Their wild forefathers had strong claws for the same reason: to defend themselves against assailants or to climb to safety away from them.
When there’s nothing else to do in the cat room, cats use logs, and a kitten may use a log for the first six months of his existence, even if there’s upholstered furniture nearby.
A cat who runs outdoors is able to scratch his claws on trees, but he must also have a scratching post in the house.
A good scratching post is more attractive than furniture, it’s sturdy and safe, and it’s tall enough for a cat to stretch out completely.
A cat must be able to pull on his post vigorously without it collapsing on him. A carpet-covered scratching post will last twice as long if the claws are kept clipped.
What could be more satisfying to a cat than fully scratching a lovely post as much as he wants, knowing that it is his right and responsibility to do so?
A good scratching post is also beneficial to the owner since it protects the furniture and pays for itself many times over.
Because an adult cat is generally taught, but a kitten is always exploring new things that interest him, it is easier to teach an adult cat to use a scratching post exclusively than it is to teach a kitten.
That’s why a kitten may learn to use his post without even thinking about it in a cat room. A kitten must be followed by his post and supervised at all times when he is taken out of his room.
To keep the kitten away from the items he likes to scratch, use sprays or powders. Unpleasant-smelling remedies are ineffective because they confuse and disorient a cat.
These preparations allow a cat to use his scratching post exclusively. Grown cats seldom require training when provided with a fine, high, and heavy post.
It simply takes a few seconds to take advantage of a cat’s natural urge to scratch new things.
If the post is really desirable, nothing could keep him from using it.
Remember that a cat loves to explore things on his own and has his own opinions. It’s nice to give him credit for his notion.
Set up his new post firmly, so it’s totally stable, and let the cat investigate. Obviously, putting a cat’s paws on a post is not a good idea.
Rub your hands over it if he still doesn’t get it, or attach a toy to it and flip it to persuade him to play with it.
If everything else fails, the cat must be confined to the room with it and nothing else to scratch until he learns to use it and establishes the habit.
This process cannot fail since every cat’s claws must be sharpened. If a cat uses a piece of furniture after using his post, spray or powder it until the new habit takes hold and the old one fades away.
A cat, on the other hand, will prefer to use a scratching post over furniture if it is genuinely more attractive.
After a cat is using his post exclusively, there are several things about which one should be watchful. First and foremost, never transfer the cat from his current location in a room with furniture; otherwise, he will use the furniture and all of his previous training will be lost.
Cats prefer to scratch their claws in their own space, therefore large flats and houses should have plenty of posts.
Cats may break training, through boredom, if left too long alone. As a result, a cat room is best used at night or when a cat is left alone for an extended length of time.
The cat would want to scratch his claws on it even whether it was a lovely scratching post, a new piece of furniture, or an old item that had been repaired.
Use powder or spray, or simply be cautious, and don’t leave him alone in the room until you’re sure he’s trustworthy.
Kittens imitate older cats and learn easily to use a post, and even older cats sometimes imitate one another.
If a kitten is too young to climb to the top of a post, provide cushions at the base for him to fall on, or turn the post over so he may use it that way.
Sprinkle mothballs or flakes on the floor where a cat stands if he loves to scratch on the wallpaper; most cats despise the odour, and these flakes or crystals may be used on any flat surface whenever you wish to keep a cat away.
Cats rarely scratch furniture covered with slipcovers.
Keep the new cat or kitten in a room with the tray for the first several weeks, preferably without beds, rugs, or upholstered furniture.
The cat is not permitted to roam freely until he has gained trust, which requires securing him with his tray at night and during the day.
If you’re transferring your own pet, follow the same procedure. Due to fear or uncertainty, an adult cat or a kitten may make a new home mistake.
Until a cat has learned to use his tray properly elsewhere, he should not be placed in a room with carpets, beds, or upholstered furniture.
Nothing is more important in a cat’s care than this first, basic step with the sanitary tray. It is important also that a cat never be shut away from his tray, even for a few minutes.
In large flats and homes, the trays should be kept in separate rooms. Experienced cat owners understand that it is easier to avoid mistakes than it is to change undesirable behaviours once they have developed.
Allowing negative behaviours to emerge is not being fair to their pets. A cat who uses carpets, chairs, or beds is untrained and cannot be trusted in all areas of the house, but a cat that uses the bathtub is typically consistent and can be trusted in other areas.
A cat can be kept out of the tub by putting some water in it, but he must be confined with his tray until he learns how to use it correctly.
He can’t be pulled out of the tub without first confirming his destination. For proper cleansing, a sanitary tray should be of metal. It should be large enough for a cat to use comfortably.
A good cat supply store will carry a variety of designs and sizes. Initially, a cat should have whatever he is used to on his tray; if an outdoor cat, soil or sand is recommended.
The new material is gradually introduced, while the old stuff is gradually removed. The standard rule is that a cat’s metamorphosis should be gradual.
Paper in a tray is preferred by most people, and a cat can be started on paper. It absorbs moisture and provides a scratching post for cats. It is then discarded.
Sand, sawdust, and medium-coarse peat moss are also used in trays. Paper is preferable since it does not skid on the floor and helps the owner to keep track of the cat’s health, including diarrhea, constipation, and worms.
Most cats like their trays changed frequently. Some cats will not use a tray more than once, necessitating the usage of two trays.
Some overzealous “housekeepers” scrape their trays so much that the paper is scratched out. A tray with high sides could be useful.
The cat is never “wrong”; the source of the error must be identified; and, while the owner is looking for the reason, the risk of repetition must be reduced; this usually entails removing the cat from the room where the error occurred.
There’s no such thing as a half-measure. Before allowing the cat back into the room where the mistake happened, he must correctly use his tray elsewhere. Only the cat should be allowed in the room where the mistake was made if it is monitored.
The longer a negative habit is practiced, the more difficult it is to break. Too much time might cause the cat’s trustworthiness to deteriorate. What a price a cat like this pays for his owner’s negligence!
Retraining a cat who has never been properly trained should be done with caution. During this period of training, a cat room is beneficial, though not required.
However, even with other cats, a cat cannot spend the entire day alone in the cat room. A tiny, portable cage may be used to keep the cat near to the family while still keeping him safe.
If he spends time with his family, he will not feel lonely or abandoned. If the misunderstanding was caused by his dissatisfaction, annoyance, or scolding, he may only need to recover his confidence.
Misbehaviour in a well-trained and trustworthy cat might be caused by confusion, protest, or illness. Condemning or scolding the cat would just confuse him and encourage him to repeat the mistake.
The cat will sense the owner’s impatience and get confused and angry, impeding proper training. Compassion, love, and patience have never been more important.
Cat owners that beat their cats, “push their noses in it,” or use pepper to snuff their pets are unsuitable cat owners. There’s no reason to be upset or frustrated if the owner is only preventing a repetition of the mistake.
The following list of reasons why cats make mistakes with their sanitary trays is not exhaustive, but it may be used as a starting point for analyzing particular instances:
- 1. Insufficient teaching; excessive independence, particularly in a new home. The first blunder became a habit.
- 2. Taking no precautions whatever with a new cat or kitten.
- 3. Taking a kitten too young and treating him like a grown cat. No kitten under the age of three months old is likely to have habits that are so well-established that full trust may be placed in him.
- 4. Confusion. The causes of confusion are limitless. The owner’s scolding or punishment may have aggravated the misunderstanding, resulting in further mistakes. These cats are prone to making mistakes.
- 5. Cats in loud, chaotic homes with rebellious children or parents who despise or don’t understand cats are notoriously untrustworthy with their trays. He might not want to share a dish with another cat; he could whine about being left alone for too long; he might protest the absence of someone he loves about (cat or person), or he might be irritated by too many cats or a cat he despises.
- 7. When a new visitor, maid, or family member hates cats, the cat is aware of this, and disobedience is usual.
- 8. Shut away from the tray. Of course, this is usually an accident, but it does have the potential to set a precedent. If doors must be closed, keep down more than one tray.
- 9. Too much disinfectant or deodorant used in the tray.
- 10. Illness. A gap in the tray might be caused by a serious illness. Urinary problems, diarrhea, and severe constipation are other symptoms. It’s possible that a veterinarian may be needed to figure out why.
- 11. Some cats like privacy and their trays should be in secluded places.
- 12. The cat who travels everywhere in the same room as his tray, whether it’s tiled, linoleum-coated, or bare boards, is the hardest to control. It is recommended that each tray be moved to a new area with different flooring and maybe different materials. Make sure the cat isn’t bored from being alone for too long; a long play session and a large meal before the night could help.
As long as the cat hasn’t used his tray properly elsewhere, he must be kept out of any rooms with comparable decor.
The length of time varies depending on the cat and the number of times the error was tolerated. Of course, the bedding or chair should be completely cleaned.
The cat must be supervised when it is allowed back in. Mothballs, flakes, or other foul-smelling concoctions, as well as waterproof sheeting, can be used to cover the location.
Waterproof sheeting should be used instead of proper training methods to minimize high cleaning costs and upholstery damage. The rug must be cleaned and deodorized if a mistake is on it.
Leaving the rug up for months is a fantastic idea. Place mothballs, flakes, or something else the cat despises on the used area while re-laying the rug.
If the cat just goes to another part of the rug, he will be barred from any room with a rug for an extended period of time.
If the mistake is made on a bare floor, the spot can be scrubbed thoroughly so no odour remains.
When a mistake is made on a floor or rug, it is sometimes enough to place a tray there momentarily before gently moving it to the appropriate spot.
This might be the main tray or a secondary tray. Sometimes a cat uses his tray, but stands too close to the edge, and thus misses it.
To assist clean the tray, a newspaper can be placed beneath it, or a small tray can be placed within a larger one, with the paper only in the smaller one.
Do not mistake the spraying of mature unaltered males for bad manners.
Unaltered senior males should, have their own quarters where they may spray and be cleaned up simply. Female cats that are in season may spray. Don’t chastise or be irritated; if you don’t like it, get your cat changed.
An altered cat may periodically rise from his tray and urinate on the wall; the age of the cat has no bearing on this.
Moving the tray away from the wall usually corrects this habit. If you have a cat with bad habits that you can’t alter, put him down instead of giving him away.
Putting dirty papers back in the tray after each change can help little kittens understand, and it can even help a confused adult cat.
Disinfectants and deodorants must be safe for cats to avoid damage.
Disinfectants are used in sanitary trays, floors, and cages to kill bacteria. Use the amount specified on the container.
A deodorant is added to the water used in cleansing the sanitary trays. Normal disinfectant, ammonia, or even soap might be used.
Deodorant is poured into the washing machine to get rid of odours, not onto a tray to. Your house will stink if you use too much deodorant, and your cat may abandon his tray.
A foul odour emanates from the trays of unaltered adult male cats, sick cats, and underfed cats.
The trays of well-fed, healthy kittens and altered cats emit almost little odour. A neglected tray will smell, no matter what cat uses it.
Trays should be replaced on a regular basis and cleaned with boiling water. Put a large piece of newspaper under the tray or clean around it since a cat’s feet may be moist when he walks off of it.